Winter Road Trip

Light streams into Upper Antelope Canyon in Page, Arizona. Photo by Arden R.

EXPLORE UPPER ANTELOPE CANYON

Antelope Canyon actually consists of two parts – Upper and Lower – both in Page. The most-photographed Canyon is Upper Antelope Canyon, primarily due to the light streaming in that looks fantastic in photos. Once you’re inside, expect stunning views all around you. Not every experience lives up to expectations, but touring a slot canyon does. The light changes the way the sandstone looks as you spend time inside. Even though you’ll be surrounded by crowds, you’re also totally surrounded by nature on all sides. Just looking up through the sky from a slot canyon feels magical. If you do manage to find time alone, it’s just you, the Earth and the sound of your feet on the ground – it makes for a peaceful, beautiful place that you’ll want to return to again and again. “If anyone wants to come to the canyon, they need to,” says Arden Redshirt, manager of Antelope Canyon Tours. “It’s a beautiful area on the Navajo reservation. And me personally, when I take a person who’s never been and see their reaction, there’s a little pride there. This is our land here. We get to share this with everyone.” After a 20-minute drive from Antelope Canyon Tours’ office, you’ll arrive at Upper Antelope Canyon. Tours are guided. The guide will tell you about the history and geology of the canyon before taking you inside. Guides will point out different rock formations that you can photograph and show you the settings to get the best photos on your smartphone. Please don’t use flash in the canyon.

For more information, visit antelopecanyon.com.

EXPLORE LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON

You have to comfortable with climbing down five flights of ladders bolted to the wall of Lower Antelope Canyon to venture inside. “It’s more of an adventure,” says Joshua Benally, director of marketing for Dixie’s Lower Antelope Canyon Tours. “It’s very blissful. You really don’t know what you’re expecting until you step foot in there. It’s so beautiful. Your breath is taken away. Once you step in there, you’re at peace with Mother Nature.” Joshua worked at Upper Antelope Canyon for six years and says he actually prefers Lower due to its endless photo opportunities and hike to get there. He recommends booking three to six months in advance. Women are advised to not wear skirts. To return, you’ll ascend up eight separate staircases. The walking tours are from one hour to 90 minutes long. The tour is 1.1 miles total. No tour operators go to both canyons. You’ll have to book each one separately.

For more information, visit antelopelowercanyon.com.

HORSESHOE BEND

In the past decade, Page’s Horseshoe Bend has become a destination in its own right. And it’s breathtaking. Besides just the vivid and colossal sandstone in the shape of the titular horseshoe, the water of the Colorado River flowing around it is a deep, mesmerizing emerald green. “It’s a really overwhelming visual experience the first time you see it,” says Mary Plumb, office of communications, public affairs for Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. “I describe it as the kind of experience that just grabs all your senses. You get to the end of your three-quarter mile hike, and you’re standing the edge of a 800-foot sheer cliff. It immediately puts you into survival mode.” And Mary says she’s seen Horseshoe Bend’s popularity soar in the past decade, largely due to social media and the easy accessibility from the highway. From being a relatively unknown spot to a place that receives an estimated 2 million visitors annually. Pay for parking ($10 per car; $5 per motorcycle) in a small lot off Highway 89, and then walk up to Horseshoe Bend. If the lot is full, you’ll have to park in a remote lot and take a shuttle to the site. Mary tells us not to park on the side of the road as towing is enforced. The hike is just three quarters of a mile. By the time you’re holding this magazine, the hope is that a new paved American Disability Act’s trail will be complete. If the trail is not finished yet, you’ll have to climb up a sand dune. Get ready for a struggle as your feet will sink into the sand as you hike up and over. The two other ways you can see Horseshoe Bend? By helicopter or via the Colorado River. In the summer of 2018, a viewing platform with a safety platform opened. But the rest of the Horseshoe Bend is open air. How close you get to the edge is your decision. Mary said some people will lay on their stomachs and photograph the site to help ensure they won’t fall off. There’s no shade on the walk up. Be sure to wear sunscreen and a hat. Bring water, and wear sturdy shoes.

For more information, visit nps.gov.

A houseboat sits in the green water and high orange cliffs of Lake Powell. Photo courtesy of NPS Photo.

SPEND A DAY ON LAKE POWELL

Although peak swimming season in Lake Powell is during the hot summer months (when the water temp is just right), we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention Lake Powell – Page’s water recreational playground. Rent a house boat or a power boat or a jet ski. “It’s 186 miles long, so there’s lots of lake to explore,” says Mike Schneider, director of sales & marketing Aramark Leisure for Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas. “It’s a great opportunity to disconnect from the real world and be in this beautiful, serene space.” Lake Powell is home to 96 named canyons that you can check out and offers 2,000 miles of shoreline – providing plenty of secluded beaches that you can enjoy. Additional Lake Powell highlights include:

LEES FERRY

If Lees Ferry sounds familiar, that’s because this place is the site of so much. It’s the only area for hundreds of miles where the Colorado River is accessible from both sides. Lees Ferry is also considered to be beginning of Grand Canyon National Park and is where many white-water rafting trips start. You can see buildings from the Lonely Dell settlement, founded by John D. Lee – who started a ferry in 1873. You can camp out here too. And if you’re interested in fishing, Lees Ferry should be on your radar. This spot on the Colorado River is “Arizona’s premier blue-ribbon trout fishery,” according to the Arizona Game & Fish Department.

For more information, visit nps.gov.

Rainbow Bridge National Monument. Photo courtesy of NPS Photo.

RAINBOW BRIDGE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Only accessible via land or boat, Rainbow Bridge National Monument – due to its, you guessed it, rainbow shape – is one of the world’s largest sandstone arches. It takes about two hours to get there via power boat. Once you dock, it’s a 1.5-mile hike to Rainbow Bridge. If you want to backpack, you must obtain a permit from Navajo Nation. The length of the hike out to Rainbow Bride depends on the water levels. Check before you head out.

For more information, visit nps.gov.

ENJOY THE PAGE/LAKE POWELL BALLOON REGATTA

During the first weekend in November, the sky in Page is dotted with colorful hot air balloons as part of the Lake Powell Balloon Regatta. From Oct. 31 to Nov. 3, you can expect to see about 60 balloons in the sky at any given time. The pilots will go where the wind takes them. “It’s spectacular to see all these balloons up around the mesas,” says Erin Lively, Page/Lake Powell Balloon Regatta committee volunteer. Expect to see colorful balloons (character balloons from past years include a Beagle and Humpty Dumpty) behind the backdrop of Page’s colorful scenery. The balloons take off and land wherever. Erin has had balloons land in the street in front of her home. Erin tells us that if you’d like to fly in one, you can ask to “crew” or essentially volunteer to complete odd jobs for a pilot. Ask for the Crew Coordinator, Chuck Straub, if this is an opportunity you’re interested in. Beyond just being beautiful, this is one of the city’s biggest weekends. “It’s one of the main events here in Page that brings the entire community together,” says Erin.

For more information, visit lakepowellballoonregatta.com.

ADMIRE THE BEAUTY OF GLEN CANYON DAM

At 726 feet tall, Page’s Glen Canyon Dam is the second highest concrete dam in the United States. Second only to the Hoover Dam. Buy beyond being a place that harnesses the power of the Colorado River, Glen Canyon is downright gorgeous. Learn more about the history of Glen Canyon at the Carl Hayden Visitor Center. But our favorite way to experience Glen Canyon is to park at the visitor center and check out the views from the Glen Canyon Dam Bridge. The sandstone canyon walls rise besides the deep green of the Colorado River, and it makes for an awe-inspiring site. The Glen Canyon Conservancy offers tour of Glen Canyon. Tours can only be reserved in person at the Carl Hayden Visitor Center or up to 24 hours in advance.

For more information, visit nps.gov or canyonconservancy.org.

If you’re in Page, Arizona, the first weekend in November, you may spot a hot air balloon like this one as part of the Page/Lake Powell Balloon Regatta. Photo courtesy of Amangiri.

STAY AT LUXURIOUS AMANGIRI

If you’re searching for a hotel in the area to splurge on, consider Amangiri. Located about 25 minutes away from Page in Canyon Point, Utah, Amangiri is a stunning property on 600 acres. The entire hotel manages to seamlessly integrate into its desert surroundings, complete with sand-colored buildings. A-listers including Kim Kardashian, Kanye West, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie are all past guests. Take in sweeping and stunning views of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument in a luxe setting. All of the Amangiri’s 34 suites feature private terraces, fireplaces, king-size beds and private courtyard entrances. The on-site 25,000 square-foot spa features treatments derived from healing traditions of the Navajo. If you book a room here, you’re in for an unparalleled luxurious experience.

For more information, visit aman.com/resorts/amangiri.