The Dude Abides: Tanque Verde Ranch

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Cowboy Cookout

According to Jim Bankson, TVR’s general manager, the ranch’s cowboy cookout – offered twice a week – is one of the most talked-about activities. In an area known as Cottonwood Grove, ranch guests begin gathering at sunset wearing cowboy boots and hats, ordering drinks from the Cottonwood Cantina Bar and enjoying the sounds of a country guitarist. During our dinner, that was Joe Barr, who’s been playing at the ranch for more than 15 years, says Jim. Picnic tables covered in red-checkered tablecloths and bedecked with small lanterns and votive candles surround several roaring fires. White lights strung between the branches of cottonwood trees complete the effect.

Dinner at the cookout includes baby back ribs, brisket, turkey, hamburgers and veggie burgers, hot dogs, corn on the cob, macaroni and cheese, baked beans, green salad, biscuits… you get the picture. All of the meat is smoked on-site and staff cooks cobblers, muffins and rolls in the beehive oven in the grove. There’s even a station for making s’mores.

During dinner, Jim and his wife, Deborah Bankson, talked about TVR’s high rate of return guests, which LeighAnn previously told us was 96 percent. (At Thanksgiving last year, 67 of the 69 rooms were occupied by returning guests.) Indeed, during our visit, it felt like we were the only ones who were newbies – and Arizonan. We happened to visit during government holidays in the UK, so most of the people we met were visiting from England and Scotland.

“The atmosphere is unique here,” says Jim, who has managed resorts his entire career, most recently in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. “From a management standpoint, you have second- and third-generation employees. It’s a very natural place. Families come and bond at the ranch. Friends meet up with friends from all over the world here. If you like to ride, you never have to leave the property, and most people don’t. It’s a join-us kind of environment. You’ll meet people, and they will invite you to sit at their table during dinner.”

Deborah, though, might have described the experience at Tanque Verde the best. “It’s like summer camp for grownups,” she says.

Breakfast Ride

Every Thursday and Sunday morning, ranch guests saddle up for the Breakfast Ride, which meanders through the foothills and winds up at the Old Homestead on TVR property. After an hour’s ride, you arrive at your location, and either Jim or 81-year-old Bob Cote will be cooking your breakfast on a mesquite fire from an outdoor kitchen. The ranch eggs with green chilies and cheese are divine, but that’s not what you’ll be talking about for weeks to come. It’s the fresh blueberry pancakes, which honestly live up to their reputation. Perhaps it’s eating outside in the cool desert morning or it’s Bob’s storytelling ability, but we’ve never had better pancakes. They are gigantic, too, and begging to be smothered in warm butter and real maple syrup.

The views from the Homestead extend into Paul McCartney’s property, the mountains and, of course, the national park. A 20-minute ride after breakfast leads you back to the resort, and you’re ready to start your day with a full stomach.

“The atmosphere is unique here,” says Jim, who has managed resorts his entire career, most recently in Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming. “From a management standpoint, you have second- and third-generation employees. It’s a very natural place. Families come and bond at the ranch. Friends meet up with friends from all over the world here. If you like to ride, you never have to leave the property, and most people don’t. It’s a join-us kind of environment. You’ll meet people, and they will invite you to sit at their table during dinner.”

The Property

At the risk of sounding trite, Tanque Verde Ranch is beautiful. When you drive up, an expansive green lawn and low-lying, unobtrusive buildings greet you. Pathways that lead from one building to the next are studded with eucalyptus, yucca, palo verde, walnut trees and dozens of varieties of cactus including barrel and organ pipe. The smell of creosote follows you. Keep an eye out for javelinas, mountain lions, bobcats, snakes, Gila monsters, coyote, wild geese, deer, scorpions and tarantulas. Carefully positioned wagon wheels and old ranch equipment make for countless photo opportunities. In the morning, watch the sun rise from behind the Rincon Mountains. With the exception of the whinnying of the horses or occasional lowing of the cattle, it’s absolutely quiet. In the evening, the setting sun makes the entire property glow an intense shade of pink.

All 69 rooms, including 12 haciendas, are unique, which has led to dozens of families returning each year and requesting the same room. Our haciendas each slept up to six people and included private patios with mountain views and luxurious bathrooms with double sinks, jetted tubs and separate walk-in showers. Every room has a fireplace, and all it takes is a phone call and the fireplaces will be “match ready” when you return from dinner. The décor is rustic chic, and none of the rooms have televisions. (There are a few TVs on property including in the community room and the Dog House Saloon where you will find the aforementioned Hell Fire margaritas and a sassy bartender with guns in her holsters and rhinestones on her boots.) The rooms are, however, equipped with satellite radio and smartphone/MP3 docks. “Rarely do I hear complaints about the lack of TVs,” says Jim. “Actually, most people thank us.”

Tanque Verde Ranch, 14301 East Speedway in Tucson. All-inclusive room rates range from $500 to $1,195, double occupancy, depending on the type of room and time of visit. For more information, visit www.tvgr.com or call 520-296-6275.


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