COOL!
10 Places to Go to Beat the Arizona Heat!

Sure, Sedona summers are milder than, say, in Phoenix – but some days, we can see you sweat. Check out great indoor and outdoor escapes that dial down nature’s thermostat – and raise the fun!

BY ERIKA AYN FINCH; PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEBBIE WEINKAUFF

It’s a dry heat. Sedona has four mild seasons. Summers aren’t bad – we have monsoons. We’ve heard it all and, while we’ll admit our summers are a walk along the beach compared to our neighbors downstate, it still gets hot in northern Arizona. What can you do to beat the heat that doesn’t involve movie marathons at Harkins Theatres? We’ve compiled a list of our top ten cool spots for the summer months. Seeking air conditioning that isn’t your own? Try a tour at the Hoover Dam or a visit to the Museum of Northern Arizona. If you turn into a fish (or just like to fish) when the mercury rises, we have you covered with trips to Lake Powell, Lyman Lake, Fool Hollow Lake, and Slide Rock. If underground adventure sparks your fancy, set out for Lava River Cave or the Grand Canyon Caverns. And if you’d rather be above the action rather than below it, check out the north rim of the Grand Canyon or the Scenic Skyride at Arizona Snowbowl. So don’t sweat it – study our guide and this summer will be a breeze.

Fool Hollow Lake Recreation Area
Just two miles from Show Low in the White Mountains, the 150-acre Fool Hollow Lake Recreation Area sits in a forest of ponderosa pine trees – is there anything more relaxing in the summertime than the sound of the wind in the tall trees or the sharp smell of pine? The lake is popular for fishing, camping, and bird watching – during our visit we spotted a blue heron, Canadian geese, and a very large woodpecker. Campsites (123 hookups and non-hookups), named for the species of birds found in the area and located in the pines with views of the lake and modern day- and group-use ramadas, are perfect spots for birthday parties and summer barbecues. The lake is stocked with rainbow trout; largemouth and smallmouth bass and other kinds of fish have also been caught. There are two boat launches, numerous fishing docks, and a walking and biking path meanders around a good portion of the lake. While swimming is permitted, the water stays cold enough to keep most visitors content simply to dip their toes on the shore.

Fool Hollow reportedly received its name when father and son farmers set up homestead in the late 1800s – locals said only a fool would farm in the area. The Mormon settlement of Adair was built in the late 1870s but dried up when Show Low Creek was dammed in 1957. Fool Hollow has become a popular spot for Phoenicians trying to beat the summer heat so expect campgrounds to fill up on the weekends when the 6,300-ft. elevation park only warms up to the mid-80s. Aside from the weekend crowds, a subdivision has sprung up around the southeast shores of the lake, detracting from area’s remote feeling and serving as a constant reminder civilization is nipping at your heels.

FOOL HOLLOW LAKE RECREATION AREA is located off Hwy 260, two miles north of US 60 near the town of Show Low. The lake is open 365 days a year. Fees: $6/vehicle for the day; camping: $19 - $30 per night for hookups and $12 - $15 per night for non-hookups (tents). For more information, visit www.pr.state.az.us/Parks/parkhtml/foolhollow.html or call 928-537-3680.

Grand Canyon Caverns
It’s a little off the beaten path but well worth the Route 66 trip, especially when you factor in the retro-cool Burma Shave signs you’ll see along the way – and that the 24/7 temperature inside the Grand Canyon Caverns is 56 degrees. The story goes that a woodcutter on his way to a poker game in 1927 discovered these limestone caves, located 210 feet underground, when he nearly fell into a hole that, upon later exploration, turned out to lead inside. The caverns have been called by many names, including Yampai Caverns, Coconino Caverns, and Dinosaur Caverns. They became Grand Canyon Caverns in 1962; though the Grand Canyon is 123 miles away, scientists discovered the national landmark is where the air in the caverns originated. According to our tour guide (you can’t access the caves without a guide) the attraction received 78,000 visitors a year during its heyday – now it’s around 40,000. The decline’s a shame considering the quirky stories lurking inside the caverns. For example, in 1963, during the Cuban Missile Crisis, the U.S. government stored enough food and rations within the caverns to sustain 2,000 people for two weeks – it’s a bit startling on the tour to come across barrels and barrels of these rations in the middle of one of the cave’s enormous rooms (see inset photo at left). Another fun fact: You can get married inside the Chapel of the Ages cavern. A big white arch has been erected in the main cavern and there are even a few dried bridal bouquets resting in niches on the cave walls.

The 25-minute short tour takes in the Chapel of the Ages; the 45-minute tour leads you through all the major rooms and gives you a glimpse of Gertie, a 15-ft. 4-inch model of a giant ground sloth whose remains were found near the entrance of the caverns. Feeling more adventurous? Make reservations for the Explorers Tour and go off-trail into rooms not seen on the other two walks. There’s a gift shop, restaurant, motel, and campground at the entrance.

GRAND CANYON CAVERNS are located on Route 66, 22 miles from Seligman. The caverns are open 364 days a year (closed on Christmas Day) – call for hours. Admission: The Regular and Short Tours cost $14.95 for adults and $9.95 for children; the Explorers Tour costs $44.95 per person. Tours depart every 30 minutes. For more information, visit www.gccaverns.com or call 928-422-3223.

The North Rim is a sub-alpine oasis with blue spruce, Douglas fir, mountain ash, lupines, and grassy meadows. Try to spot the elusive yet comical Kaibab squirrel with its furry ears and bushy silver tail, or keep an eye out for porcupines, black bear, mule deer, and elk. The North Rim has one lodge literally perched on the edge of the canyon – the dining room and deck jut out over the canyon for an ethereal feeling and amazing views. There’s also plenty of camping underneath the cool pines. Drive out to Point Imperial for views of the Painted Desert and the eastern end of the canyon or take in the sunset at Cape Royal with its frequently photographed arch, Angels Window. If you have a four-wheel-drive and are up for some adventure, make the two-hour (one-way) drive to Point Sublime for a breathtaking view of the canyon. The North Rim offers many day hikes – we enjoyed the half-mile Bright Angel Point trail – while the North Kaibab Trail takes you to the bottom of the canyon. A word to the wise: Dining is limited – the Grand Canyon Lodge dining room is wonderful, but reservations are a must for dinner. Otherwise, your only alternatives are a deli, saloon, coffee shop, or general store.

GRAND CANYON - NORTH RIM is located 30 miles south of Jacob Lake on Hwy 67, a six- to seven-hour drive from Sedona. Park facilities are open May 15 to Oct. 15. Fees: $25/vehicle for seven days. Camping: fees range from $18 to $25 per night (no hookups). For more info, visit www.nps.gov/grca or www.grandcanyonnorthrim.com or call 928-638-7888.

Scenic Skyride at Arizona Snowbowl
It’s the middle of August and 95 degrees in Red Rock Country. But just an hour away from Sedona there’s a spot where you’ll need to bundle up in a jacket, a beanie, and maybe even gloves. When we hopped aboard the Scenic Skyride at Arizona Snowbowl, one of the ski area’s four lifts, it was in the high 70s but when we hopped off the lift it was down to 45 degrees. The 25-minute (each way) ride takes you to an elevation of 11,500 ft. on the slopes of Agassiz Peak, one of the San Francisco Peaks. The views from the ski lift and Agassiz Peak are stunning – on clear days you can see all the way to the Grand Canyon. A Forest Service Ranger is stationed at the top of the skyride to answer questions and point out the peaks – make sure you identify Mt. Humphreys, the highest peak in Arizona at 12,633 ft.

Spend as much time as you’d like taking in the sights and walking along some short trails before riding back to the bottom – we were lucky enough to encounter the dime-size yellow blossoms of the San Francisco Peaks groundsel, an alpine plant found nowhere else. The ride down offers better views than the ride up, but neither is for those afraid of heights. Grab a bite to eat at the Peak Side Café or, if you forgot the fleece, head to the gift shop for summer ski sales. A bit of advice: Choose your footwear carefully. We had a great time counting all the flip-flops on the forest floor beneath the ski lift and even saw a few skyriders coming down wearing only one shoe.

SCENIC SKYRIDE AT ARIZONA SNOWBOWL is located 7 miles northwest of Flagstaff at Hwy 180 and Snowbowl Rd. The ride runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily through Labor Day, and Friday, Saturday, and Sunday through mid-October. Tickets cost $10 for adults, $8 for seniors, $6 for kids ages 8 to 12, and free for kids ages 7 and under. Get two tickets for the price of one on Tuesdays and free rides on your birthday. For more details, visit www.arizonasnowbowl.com or call 928-779-1951.

A few fun facts about Hoover Dam: It is 726.4 feet tall, weighs more than 6.6 million tons and contains 3.25 million cubic yards of concrete. The first concrete was placed on June 6, 1933, and the last was placed May 29, 1935. It took 21,000 men to build the dam; the average monthly payroll was $500,000. The dam, which backs up the Colorado River and formed 247-square-mile Lake Mead, was built to generate low-cost hydroelectric power for Nevada, Arizona, and California – it creates enough kilowatt-hours each year to serve 1.3 million people.

The HOOVER DAM is located 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas on Hwy 93. The dam is open every day except Thanksgiving and Christmas; summer hours are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. with the last tour at 5:15 p.m. Power Plant Tour admission: $11/adult, $9/seniors, $9/children 4-16, free to children 3 and under. Hoover Dam Tour: $30/person (tour not accessible to those in wheelchairs). Visitor Center: $8/person, free to children 3 and under. For more information, visit www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam/ or call 702-494-2517.

Lava River Cave
The entrance to Lava River Cave just north of Flagstaff looks like a large pile of volcanic rock with a crack at the bottom. But once you duck inside, a one-mile trail leads you into the earth’s womb…and pitch black. Don’t attempt this excursion without a flashlight or, better yet, headlamp – the Forest Service recommends bringing backup light, too. But if you’re prepared, a day in the cave is a singular experience and a great way to beat the heat.

The cave, comprised entirely of molten rock, formed about 700,000 years ago when a volcanic vent erupted in nearby Hart Prairie. Lumbermen discovered it in 1915. The floor, walls, and ceiling are incredibly sharp, jagged, and slippery, so take it slow and watch your footing. Stone “lavasicles” hang from the ceiling, which, in some areas, slopes so low you’re forced onto all fours (bring gloves and sturdy boots). Temperatures range between 35 and 45 degrees, even in mid-summer, and it’s not unusual to see ice inside, thanks to lava rock acting as an insulator – its dark color and density prevent heat from traveling – and the cave’s shape, which traps cold winter air. It’s also not unusual to see crowds, as we learned one Labor Day weekend, and teenagers who smoke at the back of the cave (we warned you). But if you’re lucky enough to be alone at the back, take a moment to turn off your lights and experience some of the deepest darkness and silence we’ve ever known. There’s only one way in and out of the cave so don’t worry about getting lost; be more concerned with your footwear and light sources.

LAVA RIVER CAVE is located 14 miles north of Flagstaff. Take US 180 north and turn west on FR 245. Continue three miles to FR 171 for one mile and turn left on FR 171B. There is no parking fee and the cave is open as long as the Coconino National Forest remains open (check for closures due to fire protection). For more info, visit www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/peaks/ lava-river-cave.shtml or call 928-526-0866.

Lake Powell/Glen Canyon National Recreation Area
No one’s suggesting temperatures at Lake Powell in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area are cool during the middle of summer – but what’s cooler than diving off a houseboat into blue waters in a secluded red rock canyon? Stretching across northern Arizona and southern Utah, Lake Powell is 400 feet deep, 186 miles long, and boasts nearly 2,000 miles of shoreline, or more than the entire U.S. west coast. The lake was formed when Glen Canyon dam was built in the late 1950s and early 1960s, backing up the Colorado and San Juan rivers and flooding Glen Canyon (still controversial today). It took 17 years to fill the lake but Mother Nature has had other plans recently – lake levels plummeted to 36 percent capacity in 2004. To our eyes, it’s obvious Lake Powell doesn’t belong – it’s disconcerting to find this huge body of water with red rock monoliths rising from the surface – but, for better or worse, it’s here. Might as well rent a boat and have some fun.

The second largest U.S. lake sees nearly 3 million visitors each year – Labor Day weekend alone has been known to attract upwards of 500,000 visitors and July 4 can be just as crowded. There are 96 major canyons to explore by watercraft, making Lake Powell a boater’s paradise – the canyons also allow for a modicum of peace and quiet; it’s not unheard of to have entire canyons to yourself. Boat and jet-ski rentals line the streets of the nearby town of Page, or you can rent from one of four marinas. If you don’t feel like navigating your own craft, a boat tour shows you the lake and the Rainbow Bridge National Monument. Water temperatures rise into the 70s during summer so you’ll also spot swimmers, scuba divers, and snorkelers. Fishing, kayaking, and water skiing are also popular. The lake is well-known for houseboat rentals (during our visit the world’s largest houseboat was docked here); other overnight options include hotels or numerous, blessedly shaded, campgrounds. There’s also hiking, though we don’t recommend it in the summer heat.

LAKE POWELL/GLEN CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION AREA is located three miles north of Page on Hwy 89. The lake is open 365 days a year with limited boat rentals during the winter. Fees: $15/vehicle for seven days; camping ranges from hookups and tents to primitive beach camping at a cost of $6 to $12 per night. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/glca/index.htm or call 928-608-6200.

Lyman Lake State Park
The oldest recreational park in the Arizona State Park System and the largest lake in northeastern Arizona, Lyman Lake measures three miles long, one-mile wide, and 45 feet deep in some spots. Yes, the lake comes in a distant third in terms of beauty next to Lake Powell or Fool Hollow Lake; the surrounding area is mostly composed of slabs of rock and low-lying vegetation. But what it lacks in eye candy it makes up in fun. The lake’s remote location and large size mean no size or speed restrictions on boats; a slalom water-skiing course is up in the summer months; and, when it’s windy, it’s windsurfer and sailboat heaven. There’s also a swim beach and plenty of fishing (rainbow trout, channel catfish, largemouth bass, walleye, carp, and bluegills; the western end of the lake has a no-wake requirement to make life more peaceful for anglers). Away from the water, there is mountain biking and interesting hiking trails, most of which lead to petroglyphs circa 6000 BC to 1400 AD. From May into September, every weekend a ranger-led tour takes you to more obscure petroglyphs and pueblo ruins accessible via pontoon boat only ($2 per person). There’s RV and tent camping (tent campers beware – there is little to no shade in the campground) or you can rent charming log cabins and tent-like yurts. At a comfortable elevation of 6,000 feet, daytime temps level off in the 90s even in the middle of summer, while nights remain cool – watch for spectacular monsoon thunderstorms in July and August. There’s also a great July 4 fireworks display on the lake.

LYMAN LAKE STATE PARK is 150 miles east of Flagstaff on US 191. The lake is open year-round though the general store is open only from April through September. Fees: $5/vehicle for the day; camping: $19 per night for hookups and $12 per night for non-hookups (tents). The lake’s general store rents fishing boats and supplies during the summer months. For more information, visit www.pr.state.az.us/Parks/parkhtml/lyman.html or call 928-337-4441.

Museum of Northern Arizona – Hopi Festival of Arts
and Culture/Navajo Festival of Arts and Culture
If your idea of “cool” in the middle of the Arizona summer requires air conditioning and a cold drink, head up to the Museum of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff for the Hopi Festival of Arts and Culture on July 5 and 6, or the Navajo Festival of Arts and Culture on August 2 and 3. Founded in 1928, MNA is all about the people and environment of the Colorado Plateau – it’s well worth a trip on its own but we recommend visiting one of the festivals for a true sense of what makes the 225-acre campus special.

The oldest Hopi show in the world celebrates its 75th anniversary this year and features more than 55 booths of katsinas, overlay jewelry, pottery, textiles, and baskets. The weekend also includes storytelling, music, dancing, and traditional Hopi cuisine, including can’t miss light and flaky blue piki bread. Walk along the Rio de Flag Nature Trail with a Hopi medicine woman or learn more about the Hopi’s dry farming practices.

At the 59th Annual Navajo Festival of Arts and Culture (dancers from the Pollen Trail Dance Group pictured at left), rug weavers demonstrate their craft on upright looms, silversmiths offer a dizzying array of turquoise jewelry, and artists sell sandpaintings, pottery, and carvings. The weekend also offers hoop and traditional dancing, a retrospective fashion show, and live traditional and contemporary music. A Navajo linguist will discuss language while other tribal members share ancient legends and traditions. A Navajo ethnobotanist will lead a hike explaining the traditional uses of native plants.

The festivals are a wonderful chance to meet Hopi and Navajo artists and discuss technique and inspiration (MNA also hosts a Zuni festival in May and a Dia de los Muertos event in October). Most artists don’t take credit cards, so be prepared: Be sure to have cash or a checkbook on hand.

THE MUSEUM OF NORTHERN ARIZONA is located three miles north of downtown Flagstaff on Hwy 180. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; closed on New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. Fees: Admission $7/adults, $6/seniors, $5/students with ID, $4/Native Americans, $4/children 7–17, free for children 6 and under. For more information, visit www.musnaz.org or call 928-774-5213.

Slide Rock State Park
Of all Sedona’s summer hot spots, Slide Rock State Park is the place to be. Families from Phoenix mingle with co-eds from NAU at this natural water slide in Oak Creek Canyon but the parking lot fills up fast so grab your towels and water shoes (you’ll need them – they don’t call it slick rock for nothing) and fill up your cooler early, especially on the weekend. Spread out your towels on the red rocks that line both sides of Oak Creek, which remains quite cold, even in the summer, and watch the kids squeal with delight as the current of the creek pushes them across the rocks. The slide isn’t the only way to enjoy Oak Creek – there’s plenty of swimming holes both up and downstream from the slide area.

If you’d rather enjoy the fun from dry land set up shop at one of the picnic areas above the creek; a general store sits near the park’s historic apple orchard (picking fruit is not allowed). The 43-acre park was originally an apple farm acquired by Frank Pendley in 1910. Pendley took advantage of the newly paved Hwy 89A and built cabins for tourists in the 1930s. The Pendley home, cabins, and apple packing barn are still on-site. Slide Rock was designated an Arizona State Park in 1987 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1991. There are three hiking trails within the park: The paved, 0.25-mile Pendley Homestead Trail, Slide Rock Route (0.3-mile) traversing Oak Creek, and Clifftop Nature Trail (0.25-mile), which meanders above the creek and offers some great photo opportunities. Slide Rock is rarely closed due to water contamination, but if you’re concerned you can call the Water Quality Hotline at 602-542-0202. Water is tested daily. Sorry, Fido: Dogs are allowed in the park but not down at the water. •

SLIDE ROCK STATE PARK is located six miles north of Sedona on Hwy 89A. Fees: $10/vehicle; camping is not allowed. For more information, visit www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/red_rock/slide-rock-pic.shtml or call 928-282-3034.

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